Doodhsagar falls by Train- Disaster waiting to happen!

Doodhsagar is a huge eye catching waterfalls in the western ghats, located in the border of Goa and Karnataka state. Thanks to couple movies which showcased this falls in recent times, tourist inflow to the falls has increased exponentially over past one year or so. However, poor logistics and travel options to Doodhsagar falls is forcing tourists to take risky approaches which may result in fatal accidents one day.

Doodhsagar falls has a jeep track which remains closed during monsoon season- and monsoon is the best time to visit the falls, as falls  will be at its best. During monsoons there’re 2 options to reach the falls- 

Option 1: Hire a local bike. ‘Pilots’ or bike taxis as these yellow board two wheeler are called, take tourists close to the falls and back, through some bike only routes identified by these bikers. They charge a hefty 500-700 Rs per person for the return trip, give very limited time at the falls and not very economical or comfortable. 

Option 2: Train: Next and the only other option to visit Doodhsaagar waterfalls during rains is by using the services of Indian Railways. However, Indian railways has turned a blind eye to the revenue generating opportunity they have in front of them. By not providing viable train options to visit Doodhsagar falls, IndianRailways is enabling its staff to earn illegal revenues. Goods train drivers ferry tourists in the engine compartment, regular tourists who board reservation coaches are made to bribe the TTEs. All in all, both tourists and Indian Railways would suffer while a few handful of people make their bounty during each monsoon season.(I am told drivers don't demand money).In this post, let us explore the train option to reach Doodhsagar falls in little more detail.

Above: people on the engine of a goods train

Below: One guy wants his photo to be clicked with an approaching train in the background. Think of the confusion driver of the coach would have. If he breaks on an uphill track to save this guy, train may loose momentum and may slide backwards resulting in accidents.

Though there’s a station named Doodhsagar falls, it doesn’t appear in the schedule of any of the trains that pass through the falls. Trains stop at Doodhsagar falls station for a few minutes, but reportedly for operational reasons. During this brief period, those visiting Dudhsagar are required to get off the train or board it, directly on to ground level, as there’s no raised platform in Doodhsagar fall station. Qulem (Station Code QLM) and Castlerock (Station code CLR) are the two stations before and after the falls where one can buy tickets.

There is a big catch in traveling by train…

·         There’re no passenger trains between Kulem and Castlerock. All are express trains plying long distance.

·         These trains will have only one or two general compartments- we won’t know where exactly these compartments are and even if you find them, they are jam-packed and hardly anyone can squeeze in. So only option for tourists is to get into sleeper coaches.

·         You will need reservation tickets to enter sleeper coach. You can’t book them online in advance because unless seats are available or in RAC or within permissible wait-list count, system won’t let you book. If you try to book for a weekend date, in all probability the seats will be sold out. (I tried for a weekend date 6 weeks from now and I got ‘Regret’ message). There will be very little quota allotted to these small stations like Kulem and Castlerock. For a half day picnic we can’t really plan months in advance and book a sleeper coach ticket with specific passenger names, age etc.

·         So at Kulem or Castlerock stations, you will only be able to buy general ticket. (General ticket between QLM and CLR costs Rs 35 per person). So with a general ticket, it is an offense to board reservation coaches. TTEs will try to extract bribe from passengers without giving receipts or for those who insist receipt, they try to scare them stating actual fare is some big amount like Rs 350/500 etc and they are better off giving 100 Rs to TTE and keep quiet. Designated penalty for traveling in sleeper coach with a general class ticket is Rs 50 between QLM and CLR. You can insist on a receipt and TTE will be forced to issue a receipt after collecting only Rs 50 per person. Do not bribe them.

·         We bought both onward and return ticket at Kulem, because Doodhsagar falls station has no ticket counter. Many who don’t know this, won’t be able to buy return ticket and they will be exploited even more by the TTE, by collecting bribe of even Rs 1000 per person, depending on how wealthy the party looks.

·         There’re very few trains between QLM and CLR. If you miss them, you either need to walk all the way, or travel unofficially on goods train, like many do, risking their lives.

·         Doodhsagar station has no platform. One has to jump off the train right on to the track. We were scared train will stop only for 2 minutes here, but probably because of the crowd, it did stop little longer- like five minutes or so, which was adequate for everyone to get out and in.

·         If you go from Kulem, you get to see the falls first before getting off the train. But those coming from CLR side wouldn’t know exactly where to get down. A few people were told train will stop right next to the falls, so they didn’t get down at the Doodhsagar station. When they realized train wouldn’t stop in front of the falls, few attempted getting off from moving train, others had to get down at Sonaulim station and walk back.

Thus, despite having huge tourism potential, Indian Railways hasn’t made any attempt to introduce some passenger trains for tourists visiting Doodhsagar. Thus they are enabling  TTEs to make a killing from tourists, (I am told coach drivers don't take money- not sure) while tourists risk their lives to travel to Doodhsagar falls, by standing outside the engine coach, by jumping off to the track or trying to board/alight from a running train.

Depending on how much you’re willing to walk, you can opt to get down from various stations as per one of the options below:

Option 1: Minimal walk: Board the train at Qulem (Kulem), Solaulim or Castlerock (or any other station possible) and get down at Doodhsagar falls station. Walk about 1 km or 2 to the waterfalls, come back to Doodhsagar station in time for next train back. (On a Sunday, 8.30 AM Howrah Express from Kulem (Train number 18048) and 11 Am Poorna express (train number 11097) are most practical options. On rest of the days, train timings (onward and return combination) are not that convenient and half day trip could become full day outing while you wait for trains. For schedules check www.indianrail.gov.in for trains between QLM and CLR)

Option 2: Medium Walk: Get down at Dooshsagar falls station, walk down all the way to Sonaulim station (approx. 5-6kms)- this route is very scenic and if you’re lucky, you can click the train passing in-front of the falls. From Sonaulim take the next train or try hiring a taxi.

Option 3: Long walk: Get down at Castlerock and trek all the way to Doodhsagar or get down at Doodhsagar and trek all the way to Castlerock or back to Kulem, if you have the time and energy to trek for about 10-12kms.

I have made below video on Doodhsagar falls, which shows some of the risk involved. Kindly watch and share the same to help spread awareness.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UolGY0mKqXI

Indian Railways should do the following ASAP before some major accidents occur:

·         Introduce a few passenger trains with second sitting/chair cars between either Madgao/Vasco to Londa/Belgaum etc via Doodhsagar

·         Enable tourists to buy legitimate ticket and travel to and from Doodhsagar falls to nearby towns without having to bribe or pay fine

·         Give longer stops- like 10 mins for this train at stations like Kulem, Doodhsagar falls, Castlerock etc

·         Build some basic platform at Doodhsagar station
·         Penalize/suspend staff who collect bribe from tourists, drivers who take tourists in driver coach.

·         Put some display boards providing timings and safety instructions at appropriate places

Doodhsagar falls was the most exciting place during our Goa trip. There were lots of cloud, moisture in the air and occasional rains, so I didn’t get best possible photos. But that is fine, because I got to see the falls at its best.  Photos can wait.

Also read: My Wishlist for Indian Railways  * Doodhsagar falls visit in Jan 2015 by road *